Under Dash Electrics & Hydraulic Clutch

September 2005 - February 19th 2007.

First, I must apologise for not updating this site. Between working away and battles with the car, I for lacked the time to update. So here I'm updating the site as quickly as I can. Since the last update, I have not been lazy. The car has had my full attention most weekends and during the week when I could. The first job I tackled was the under dash electrics. This picture shows the extent near the drivers side. You can see an additional fusebox, 4 relay box from the Rover and an addition delay relay (Big red one next to the yellow one). The Red relay is for the intermittent for the wipers. On the Rover, this was controller by the multifunction unit. I got this tip from Trev (another 5EXI build "cheers Trev"). This Relay is from a Ford Orion, escorts etc. The relay has a ford logo 68 125 and the words Winch Intervall Steuergerat 12V. I will update the Downloads section with the circuit diagram when I get a chance. The relay box on the Rover was used for Main Beam, Rear fogs, Cigar lighter and horn. I wanted for the future, to have front fogs. So I wired in the main beam as a front fog relay. All these was wired in and fused (that's what the additional fuse box is for. Also for the reversing light.

Here is another picture of the intermittent relay.

Here is the rest of the under dash electrics snaking it's way around.

While on the subject of electrics, I was scratching my head on how to fuse the fuel pump relay, main relay, Permanent + both Purple and Brown. While down visiting another 5EXI building a K series, noticed one of these fuse boxes. Had all the right fuses I need with the correct labels.

Now you may think the next step is to fit the dash board. But on connecting up the driveshafts, the clutch was undriveable. Also, from other turbo builders that were on the road, clutch cables have been snapping. So made the decision to go to hydraulic clutch. This was easier said then done. The gear box end was straight forward. Gearbox needed to come off (easier said then done in a tight space.) Got parts from a 800 turbo and a 600 TI. Got the slave cylinder and clutch release arm from a 800 turbo. The slave bracket from a 600 Ti. The gearbox was resprayed before fitment. While I was there, I fitted an upto date gearbox mount from Marlin. This was to help on the driveshaft problems these turbo's have. More on this later.

Ok the front of the system. To make a hydraulic system to work, all that was needed is connect the slave cylinder to a master cylinder which in turn connects to the clutch pedal. Sounds easy doesn't it! with very limited space between the Servo and heater pipes, we knew there was going to be lots of problems. When I said we, my good old friend John got roped into helping. at first it was ideas. But he has ended up doing all the design and build of this clutch system. A few pints it cost me!

As you can see it's a tight fit between the servo and heater pipes. So at the start, we were governed by master cylinder. You can just see the 5mm Aluminium Panel cut around the heater pipes. Fix to this was the master cylinder and pedal box. The master cylinder was fixed with two bolts and the pedal box bolted using 4 bolts. All with the 5mm Aluminium sandwiched between. Here you can see the two of the pedal bracket bolts with locknuts on with the reservoir.

Here you can see the other two nuts for the pedal bracket. Behind the servo.

Here is the view from the front complete.

The two bolts with locknuts on from inside. Using "L" shaped aluminium bracket to hold the pedal box. A tight fit behind the heater.

The flat bolts with the nuts behind the servo in the above picture.

And the rod connecting the master cylinder to the pedal. As we did not know how the measurements would work out, we threaded the rod until the end. After bleeding the system we could select gears with the engine running. But would crunch when going into reverse. Adjust the threaded rod hear and all worked ok the end result, this clutch feels so much better than the cable one and is easy to drive.


	Under Dash Electrics & Hydraulic Clutch September 2005 - February 19th 2007. First, I must apologise for not updating this site. Between working away and battles with the car, I for lacked the time to update. So here I'm updating the site as quickly as I can. Since the last update, I have not been lazy. The car has had my full attention most weekends and during the week when I could. The first job I tackled was the under dash electrics. This picture shows the extent near the drivers side. You can see an additional fusebox, 4 relay box from the Rover and an addition delay relay (Big red one next to the yellow one). The Red relay is for the intermittent for the wipers. On the Rover, this was controller by the multifunction unit. I got this tip from Trev (another 5EXI build "cheers Trev"). This Relay is from a Ford Orion, escorts etc. The relay has a ford logo 68 125 and the words Winch Intervall Steuergerat 12V. I will update the Downloads section with the circuit diagram when I get a chance. The relay box on the Rover was used for Main Beam, Rear fogs, Cigar lighter and horn. I wanted for the future, to have front fogs. So I wired in the main beam as a front fog relay. All these was wired in and fused (that's what the additional fuse box is for. Also for the reversing light. Here is another picture of the intermittent relay. Here is the rest of the under dash electrics snaking it's way around. While on the subject of electrics, I was scratching my head on how to fuse the fuel pump relay, main relay, Permanent + both Purple and Brown. While down visiting another 5EXI building a K series, noticed one of these fuse boxes. Had all the right fuses I need with the correct labels. Now you may think the next step is to fit the dash board. But on connecting up the driveshafts, the clutch was undriveable. Also, from other turbo builders that were on the road, clutch cables have been snapping. So made the decision to go to hydraulic clutch. This was easier said then done. The gear box end was straight forward. Gearbox needed to come off (easier said then done in a tight space.) Got parts from a 800 turbo and a 600 TI. Got the slave cylinder and clutch release arm from a 800 turbo. The slave bracket from a 600 Ti. The gearbox was resprayed before fitment. While I was there, I fitted an upto date gearbox mount from Marlin. This was to help on the driveshaft problems these turbo's have. More on this later. Ok the front of the system. To make a hydraulic system to work, all that was needed is connect the slave cylinder to a master cylinder which in turn connects to the clutch pedal. Sounds easy doesn't it! with very limited space between the Servo and heater pipes, we knew there was going to be lots of problems. When I said we, my good old friend John got roped into helping. at first it was ideas. But he has ended up doing all the design and build of this clutch system. A few pints it cost me! As you can see it's a tight fit between the servo and heater pipes. So at the start, we were governed by master cylinder. You can just see the 5mm Aluminium Panel cut around the heater pipes. Fix to this was the master cylinder and pedal box. The master cylinder was fixed with two bolts and the pedal box bolted using 4 bolts. All with the 5mm Aluminium sandwiched between. Here you can see the two of the pedal bracket bolts with locknuts on with the reservoir. Here you can see the other two nuts for the pedal bracket. Behind the servo. Here is the view from the front complete. The two bolts with locknuts on from inside. Using "L" shaped aluminium bracket to hold the pedal box. A tight fit behind the heater. The flat bolts with the nuts behind the servo in the above picture. And the rod connecting the master cylinder to the pedal. As we did not know how the measurements would work out, we threaded the rod until the end. After bleeding the system we could select gears with the engine running. But would crunch when going into reverse. Adjust the threaded rod hear and all worked ok the end result, this clutch feels so much better than the cable one and is easy to drive.