Start Of Electrics, Remote Oil Filter, Gear Change & Exhaust July14th I was feeling very confused on how I was going to wire in the engine fuse box. After speak with Drew, a Rover expert (cheers Drew!!!), like always there's a simple answer. Forget the big fuse box I got with the donor. get a relay box from the engine compartment of a Bubble Rover Petrol. The wires are near enough straight through connections from Relay box to your original donor engine wiring loom. So on the engine wiring loom, you should have two connectors for the ECU and two white connectors which would have plugged into the the donor fuse box. I was itching to turn the engine over by the key. One to start circulating the oil around everyway in preparation for engine start. Life will be much easier that cranking by hand. So snipped off the two white connectors. With the starter completely disconnected electrically, connected the Brown/Grey (there are two brown/Grey's), the one the the middle of the connector on the relay box. Connected this to the Brown from the Marlin loom. This I connected to the positive lead for the battery. Next I connected the Brown/Red's of the engine loom and the relay box together. Then the White/Red to the White of the Marlin loom. the lastly for the rear wiring the Black/White to the Negative terminal of the battery. For the ignition switch, I connected the two Browns from the ignition switch and the Brown from the Marlin loom together. Then the Black/White (Start) to the White of the Marlin loom. After metering the resistances of the Brown Wire and White wire while turning to Start making sure there's a circuit when turning to start position. All was looking ok. Time to connect the battery still without the starter connected. Sparks flew!!!. After disconnecting the battery, measured the resistance across the positive terminal and negative on the car's loom. Dead short!!. After disconnecting the relays and all the wires, still a dead short. Traced he fault to one of the sensors. Just reseated the connector and all was fine. Connected everything back up. Tested voltages and was getting 12V to starter when ignition key turned to starter position. Connected up starter. Turned key and battery was flat. Jump started with my car. But still not turning. After filling with some oil, and easing by hand cranking over, the engine was turning over by the key!!!. the only problem was I forgot that the oil pipe from the engine was not connected to the turbo!! So a big pool of oil in the garage. Also found the oil filter blanking plate was not tight. So more oil leaking!! July 24th Now I have the engine turning over, and found the initial connections of the electrics pretty straight forward, that I would concentrate on the other bits before I can fire up the engine. This is because if the electrics get get done I would be tempted to try and start without coolant and oil filter. So to stop temptation, I wanted to concentrate on them. But found I had the wrong sizes for the remote oil filter threads. after a lot of running about, could not get the bits I needed. And for the cooling system, the only think that needed doing was the expansion tank. But the rain was pouring down. So instead decided to do some connections on the dash board. Started by first stripping wires for connection, slipping a length of heat shrink (from Maplins). Twist the wires together and solder. making sure the heat shrink is no where near the wire to be solder. Learned the hard way on this!!! Then slid the heat shrink over the soldered wire. heated with heat gun used for stripping the windows many years back.    I've made a start on an electrical document which can be found here electrics.doc. I will update as much as possible. August - 9th September It's been a while since up dating this site purely because there's been a bit of head scratching re the remote oil filter. The diagram in the Rover manual are not too clear as to where the oil cooler pipes join the oil pump. The one above the original oil filter is correct but the other pipe on the diagram is in totally the wrong position on the diagram. But decided to go with the arrow on the diagram to get the correct flow. Another 5EXi builder has already started his and did the piping this way. And all sounds ok. Next on the to do list was the gear change cables. But to do this, you need to fit a Marlin made adapter to the gearbox rod. You need to drill a hole through the adapter so the gearbox pin (bought from Rover) can be tapped through. I drilled the hole through the adapter and slide the adapter on. Started hammering away at the pin. But the pin needed squeezed in a vice a bit first. Once the pin was at the top. the hole in the adapter did not line up by about 5mm!!! Ahhhh. The only way was to use the Dremel tool to cut a bit of the hole away so the pin could go through. Next was the gear change cable to control the left and right movement. This was a matter of cutting 2 M10 bolts as the was too long. I need to screw in and out a few times to clear the thread on the gearbox. The brass clamp then holds the outer cable so the inner cable works. The gear change cable for the front is the same process but there was a bolt already in the gearbox to use to mount the other adapter. i then had the gearlever operating the gearbox. But does need some adjusting as did not feel good. Will come back to this later. Now I could fit the exhaust. This was a matter of cutting three M10 threaded stud about 50mm (I'm getting used to the grinder now!). Screwing these into the exhaust turbo elbow. Then fitting the gasket and downpipe. This is easier said then done due to gravity. So while crawling under the car, held the downpipe using face and sump. Then try and fit the washer and nut. Once the first nut was on, face had less work to do!! then the rear panel could be fitted and other two pieces of exhaust. The exhaust rubbers need rotating to mount correctly.