Engine Steady & Fuel Tank

June

Been doing bits a pieces. But it's bits and pieces that are unseen. It was a major point seeing the car on the wheels. The first thing I needed to do was get the engine secure. I had a bungee cord holding the "tilt" of the engine. As there was no set angle of the engine for the drive shafts, I asked Marlin for anything that could be adjustable. The solution was a good idea. A black steel block bolted to the engine with two bolts. The bottom of the steel block had a thread. In this thread one of the two chrome ball joints screwed in. Between this ball joint and the second, a length of thread and a lock nut. The thread needed cutting a little short than supplied (but not too short!!). The second ball joint the screwed in the required amount so as to fit into the hole in the bracket on the chassis. Secured with a not and washer. The trolley jack could then be release from the gearbox end that was being used to "rotate" the engine.

I have a bit of trouble with the top one though. Will need to make one up. I have a friendly scrap yard who has been taking a keen interest in help if I needed it. But will come back to this another day.

Next was the accelerator pedal and cable. This was simple. Two holes in the front bulk head marked out. Just drilled the holes and mounted pedal using two nut and bolts. next was to drill a hole through for the accelerator cable. As luck would have it, the place I needed to drill was where one of the rivets holding the front alloy bulk heads on. Damn. So drill out my first rivet!!!. Next was to make a small hole just large enough to fit the cable through. Just connected the other end via the centre tunnel to the throttle body on the engine.

Ah the fuel pump. Been doing a bit of investigation. The fuel tank supplied by Marlin is made for a 1.6 K series fuel pump. This pump has the pump and sender unit together in one unit. The turbo has separate units. My way of thinking keep the same setup as the donor. I have ordered a replacement rubber gasket for the sender unit. Borrowed a hole cutter (tested on a piece of wood first to get size of hole right) and made the hole in the fuel tank. Drilled holes through old rubber gasket and sender unit to test fitting.

The cooling system is now also done as per this diagram cool.pdf

July 3rd

Started on the electrics. First of all took a big deep breath as I removed the Marlin loom from the bag. Once out, i dare to say it did not look that bad. Started at the grommet. Most of the wiring loom needs to pass through the hole in the bulkhead leaving all the fuse box and interior items. Stared labelling the interior bits like ignition.

July 10th

As today was a nice day, what better way to unravel the donor loom for all the connectors. The instrument panel was easy as this was on a separate loom, But the rest had to be found and snipped. Though this was time consuming (about 3 hours worth), and would have been easier if labelled, it was soon done. Always in the back of my mine was to get the engine turning over with the key. Al going well until it was time to connect up the fuse box with all the relays. I had no pin outs for the connectors on the fuse box. So will either need to source another fuse box that he engine loom can connect into or a pain staking job of metering out the fuse box.


	Engine Steady & Fuel Tank June Been doing bits a pieces. But it's bits and pieces that are unseen. It was a major point seeing the car on the wheels. The first thing I needed to do was get the engine secure. I had a bungee cord holding the "tilt" of the engine. As there was no set angle of the engine for the drive shafts, I asked Marlin for anything that could be adjustable. The solution was a good idea. A black steel block bolted to the engine with two bolts. The bottom of the steel block had a thread. In this thread one of the two chrome ball joints screwed in. Between this ball joint and the second, a length of thread and a lock nut. The thread needed cutting a little short than supplied (but not too short!!). The second ball joint the screwed in the required amount so as to fit into the hole in the bracket on the chassis. Secured with a not and washer. The trolley jack could then be release from the gearbox end that was being used to "rotate" the engine. I have a bit of trouble with the top one though. Will need to make one up. I have a friendly scrap yard who has been taking a keen interest in help if I needed it. But will come back to this another day. Next was the accelerator pedal and cable. This was simple. Two holes in the front bulk head marked out. Just drilled the holes and mounted pedal using two nut and bolts. next was to drill a hole through for the accelerator cable. As luck would have it, the place I needed to drill was where one of the rivets holding the front alloy bulk heads on. Damn. So drill out my first rivet!!!. Next was to make a small hole just large enough to fit the cable through. Just connected the other end via the centre tunnel to the throttle body on the engine. Ah the fuel pump. Been doing a bit of investigation. The fuel tank supplied by Marlin is made for a 1.6 K series fuel pump. This pump has the pump and sender unit together in one unit. The turbo has separate units. My way of thinking keep the same setup as the donor. I have ordered a replacement rubber gasket for the sender unit. Borrowed a hole cutter (tested on a piece of wood first to get size of hole right) and made the hole in the fuel tank. Drilled holes through old rubber gasket and sender unit to test fitting. The cooling system is now also done as per this diagram cool.pdf July 3rd Started on the electrics. First of all took a big deep breath as I removed the Marlin loom from the bag. Once out, i dare to say it did not look that bad. Started at the grommet. Most of the wiring loom needs to pass through the hole in the bulkhead leaving all the fuse box and interior items. Stared labelling the interior bits like ignition. July 10th As today was a nice day, what better way to unravel the donor loom for all the connectors. The instrument panel was easy as this was on a separate loom, But the rest had to be found and snipped. Though this was time consuming (about 3 hours worth), and would have been easier if labelled, it was soon done. Always in the back of my mine was to get the engine turning over with the key. Al going well until it was time to connect up the fuse box with all the relays. I had no pin outs for the connectors on the fuse box. So will either need to source another fuse box that he engine loom can connect into or a pain staking job of metering out the fuse box.