Floor Section & Riveting

March 12th

Collected Modules 1 & 2 from Marlin. Discovered that they are different lengths of long wheelbase vans. I had a Ford Transit but was the small of the Long wheelbase types. So had to unbolt rear section for it to fit ok in the van. Once home unloaded into garage/workshop. The garage has just enough room to build the car and is made easier by being on the build trolleys I hired from Marlin. Just as a note the garage is integral type in the house.

March 13th

Started on the floors. Only had a couple of hours today so did not get much done. Removed rollover bar and turned chassis upside down. This was so drilling could take place. First the floors were lined up and clamped. Found you could not have enough clamps. You need lots to hold it firm!! Tried marking the cross sections from underneath. But markers do not like writing upside down!!!. So the way round it was to mark up while chassis was laid on it's side and then marked. As per instructions side where doors under moulding goes were not drilled. Instead 4.8mm (yes I did not know there was such a size drill either!). This size was used for all diagonal cross section and along the front and rear rivet holes. This was a BIG mistake!!! I broke the two 4.8mm drills I had. I tried to get one locally everywhere but could only get 4.5mm or 5mm drills. The spacing was 100mm apart. These was all drilled just in the floor sheet on a workbench. After filing drill holes getting rid of rough bits after drilling, the section was tried on the opposite side floor side on chassis. marking with pen through the holes drilled, checked position. The car seem symmetrical as the holes drilled aligned with other side of car. So both floor panels were clamped together and using holes already drilled in first floor section, create identical holes for other floor section. All fitted ok. Clamped centre sections evenly and pre drill 3mm holes. It was getting a little late but was dying to try a rivnut. So opened one of the 3mm holes to 9.5mm. Popped a brass rivnut and squeezed. Great my first ever rivnut install!!! All measurements and help were from my good friend John O'Keeffe.

March 14th/15th/16th/17th

Continued drilling the other side of floor sheet. Just as a precaution I drew through the drilled holes. This was to check before drilling that all holes were lined up and also for checking while drilling that there were no movement. Did the same as before drilling 4.8mm for rivet holes and 9.5mm for rivnut holes. Once holes were all drilled, all the holes and edge of floor panels to remove the rough edges.

Now time for rivnuting. Hmmm. Still not got no idea of the correct way of using this tool but found a way of make life easy. This was after a few big blisters!!! First how ever you can crimp the rivnut in the hole. I say this as I still take a while to play with the knobs on the tool to get it to crimp. Not sure but more luck than judgment at the moment. Then with the crimp handles just slightly squeezed unscrew anticlockwise until released. Without this slight squeeze it will be difficult to turn and you will get blisters!!! You may just be able to make out from the picture that mark lines from the rivnuts. This is so when turn correct way up and time for the tunnel, I will not be drilling through these rivnuts.

March 18th

Started doing some filing on the front bulkhead or as they say in the trade fettling. Usually the pros say when there writing a "how to" on building they quote "just had to do a little fettling before fitting". Well I was "fettling" for two hours and still needs a bit more. Don't under estimate the time this takes. It takes a bit of "ah needs filing there" and removing panel back and forth.

March 19th

As it was a nice sunny day I thought I would spend the day in the garden. No no lazing about sub bathing with a beer. This day was spend dismantling all the bits from the suspension legs that was still complete. This was a job that needed doing eventually so clean up of parts could be done and why not on a nice. Every single bolt even after some WD40 was rock solid. And after a lot of cursing and words not in the English dictionary, it was al in bits ready for cleaning. Apart from that is one bolt. I'll be back for that one later as the bolt head got rounded and needs a bit of TLC.

March 21st - 30th

Continued with the fettling and drilling of the bulkheads. John cam over and said I have an idea. Out popped an angle grinder and after a few minutes all the fettling was done!! A lot easier than filing away bit by bit. Next was the panel bonding. Take my advise and wear plastic gloves. Because after experience (and reading the details on the sealant tube!!), this stuff does not come off when in contact with moisture. So if you get it onto your hands with out wearing gloves (and you will!!) as soon as you try and wash your hands you will find that the only way to remove the stuff is by taking a layer of skin off!!! Accuracy is everything when it comes to positioning the panels. You don't have a lot of time to reposition. What I did is position a accurately as possible and poke the rivets it the holes just to make sure you have the correct position.

Next was the riveting itself. I knew from other tales that this was going to be an experience both mentally and physically. And it was. First one the agenda was how to use the rivet tool. This was easy compared to the rivinut tool. Just a matter of place tool on rivet and squeeze for all you can. Completely release tool and go again. Hopefully by this time the rivet would have "popped". You will fell like you have arms like Popeye by the time you have finished. But still not worth the hire of a gun in my opinion. Just cleaned excess off with some engine cleaner. I bought this to clean up all the donor parts and it works a treat. now for the mental part. Once everything is clean you stand back and admire the rivets. You do get a good sense of well being!!

March 31st

Started on the steering rack today. The best way is to fit from the drivers side. Now for the clamps. After studying for 10 minutes or so found that the little "straight edge" 48mm clamp is not needed. This is because the pinion bit where the column joins already has a straight edge. You will find that these clamps will not bend easy. Well not the way you want them to fit in the holes. The passenger side one would have been easier to fit before the front bulk head was fitted. This was because you could have hit it with a hammer from the other side. But the drivers one is different. I think by luck I wiggled and poked the clamp until by luck it was fitted just enough to get a tread for the nut. Just a little patience and luck!!!


	Floor Section & Riveting March 12th Collected Modules 1 & 2 from Marlin. Discovered that they are different lengths of long wheelbase vans. I had a Ford Transit but was the small of the Long wheelbase types. So had to unbolt rear section for it to fit ok in the van. Once home unloaded into garage/workshop. The garage has just enough room to build the car and is made easier by being on the build trolleys I hired from Marlin. Just as a note the garage is integral type in the house. March 13th Started on the floors. Only had a couple of hours today so did not get much done. Removed rollover bar and turned chassis upside down. This was so drilling could take place. First the floors were lined up and clamped. Found you could not have enough clamps. You need lots to hold it firm!! Tried marking the cross sections from underneath. But markers do not like writing upside down!!!. So the way round it was to mark up while chassis was laid on it's side and then marked. As per instructions side where doors under moulding goes were not drilled. Instead 4.8mm (yes I did not know there was such a size drill either!). This size was used for all diagonal cross section and along the front and rear rivet holes. This was a BIG mistake!!! I broke the two 4.8mm drills I had. I tried to get one locally everywhere but could only get 4.5mm or 5mm drills. The spacing was 100mm apart. These was all drilled just in the floor sheet on a workbench. After filing drill holes getting rid of rough bits after drilling, the section was tried on the opposite side floor side on chassis. marking with pen through the holes drilled, checked position. The car seem symmetrical as the holes drilled aligned with other side of car. So both floor panels were clamped together and using holes already drilled in first floor section, create identical holes for other floor section. All fitted ok. Clamped centre sections evenly and pre drill 3mm holes. It was getting a little late but was dying to try a rivnut. So opened one of the 3mm holes to 9.5mm. Popped a brass rivnut and squeezed. Great my first ever rivnut install!!! All measurements and help were from my good friend John O'Keeffe. March 14th/15th/16th/17th Continued drilling the other side of floor sheet. Just as a precaution I drew through the drilled holes. This was to check before drilling that all holes were lined up and also for checking while drilling that there were no movement. Did the same as before drilling 4.8mm for rivet holes and 9.5mm for rivnut holes. Once holes were all drilled, all the holes and edge of floor panels to remove the rough edges. Now time for rivnuting. Hmmm. Still not got no idea of the correct way of using this tool but found a way of make life easy. This was after a few big blisters!!! First how ever you can crimp the rivnut in the hole. I say this as I still take a while to play with the knobs on the tool to get it to crimp. Not sure but more luck than judgment at the moment. Then with the crimp handles just slightly squeezed unscrew anticlockwise until released. Without this slight squeeze it will be difficult to turn and you will get blisters!!! You may just be able to make out from the picture that mark lines from the rivnuts. This is so when turn correct way up and time for the tunnel, I will not be drilling through these rivnuts. March 18th Started doing some filing on the front bulkhead or as they say in the trade fettling. Usually the pros say when there writing a "how to" on building they quote "just had to do a little fettling before fitting". Well I was "fettling" for two hours and still needs a bit more. Don't under estimate the time this takes. It takes a bit of "ah needs filing there" and removing panel back and forth. March 19th As it was a nice sunny day I thought I would spend the day in the garden. No no lazing about sub bathing with a beer. This day was spend dismantling all the bits from the suspension legs that was still complete. This was a job that needed doing eventually so clean up of parts could be done and why not on a nice. Every single bolt even after some WD40 was rock solid. And after a lot of cursing and words not in the English dictionary, it was al in bits ready for cleaning. Apart from that is one bolt. I'll be back for that one later as the bolt head got rounded and needs a bit of TLC. March 21st - 30th Continued with the fettling and drilling of the bulkheads. John cam over and said I have an idea. Out popped an angle grinder and after a few minutes all the fettling was done!! A lot easier than filing away bit by bit. Next was the panel bonding. Take my advise and wear plastic gloves. Because after experience (and reading the details on the sealant tube!!), this stuff does not come off when in contact with moisture. So if you get it onto your hands with out wearing gloves (and you will!!) as soon as you try and wash your hands you will find that the only way to remove the stuff is by taking a layer of skin off!!! Accuracy is everything when it comes to positioning the panels. You don't have a lot of time to reposition. What I did is position a accurately as possible and poke the rivets it the holes just to make sure you have the correct position. Next was the riveting itself. I knew from other tales that this was going to be an experience both mentally and physically. And it was. First one the agenda was how to use the rivet tool. This was easy compared to the rivinut tool. Just a matter of place tool on rivet and squeeze for all you can. Completely release tool and go again. Hopefully by this time the rivet would have "popped". You will fell like you have arms like Popeye by the time you have finished. But still not worth the hire of a gun in my opinion. Just cleaned excess off with some engine cleaner. I bought this to clean up all the donor parts and it works a treat. now for the mental part. Once everything is clean you stand back and admire the rivets. You do get a good sense of well being!! March 31st Started on the steering rack today. The best way is to fit from the drivers side. Now for the clamps. After studying for 10 minutes or so found that the little "straight edge" 48mm clamp is not needed. This is because the pinion bit where the column joins already has a straight edge. You will find that these clamps will not bend easy. Well not the way you want them to fit in the holes. The passenger side one would have been easier to fit before the front bulk head was fitted. This was because you could have hit it with a hammer from the other side. But the drivers one is different. I think by luck I wiggled and poked the clamp until by luck it was fitted just enough to get a tread for the nut. Just a little patience and luck!!!