Pedal Box, Rear Suspension & Engine In

May 21st - 22nd

Arrived on Friday was the exhaust and modified pedals. These needed reassembled and fitted. After a bit of head scratching, I could not workout where the clutch spring attaches to the pedal. On the donor was a little bracket it attached to. Contacted Trevor (another 5EXI builder) who checked on on his. No spring needed. Cheers Trevor for the info. After a bit of jiggling about of the pedal box, the pedal box was know in position and the servo assembly could be fitted. The servo need a bit of persuasion with a hammed to help it through the holes. Once bolted up, the steering column rubbed against the brake pedal. I think all that's needed here is an adjustment to the length of the steering column. This will need to wait until a later time.

Chris has been in touch and wants to pop down. Shall we fit the engine and get the car on it's wheels? Ok lets go for it. So engine is booked in for the end of May to be fitted. But I need to fit the rear suspension yet!!! So today fitted the rear suspension. The wishbones need some persuasion with a hammer. This is a two person job s o the other half was roped n to help. After a bit of bashing with the hammer, they were in place. The end's of the top ball joint (the one that screws into the wishbone) needs cutting where it enters the upright. At this time, John popped over to see how I was getting on. He always turns up at Grinder time!! After grinding about 7 threads worth from the ball joint and cleaned with the grinder all looked ok. Cheers John!! Fitted the arm which holds the track rod end. Fitted the upright roughly to get a rough setting for the camber. This was done using a spirit level and screwing in the top ball joints so the spirit was just off centre.

May 28th - 30th

Chris came down last night with the family. Had a good few drinks. The plan today was to get the engine in. But there was a few jobs needed doing before this could be done. First, it would be easier to have the brake pipes and gear cables in position and the car on all it's wheels off the trolley stands. So the first job was to run the brake pipes. After some scratching heads the pips was worked out. The long pipe was the pipe running from the master cylinder to the back of the car. The pair of long pipes was for the rear brake calipers and the short pair for the front calipers and a single short pipe for the front tee piece to the master cylinder. But there was a problem. the screw threads on the piping was not correct for the master cylinder. Also the single short brake pipe would not reach the connection. So down to the breakers and got another master cylinder but kept the servo. Next the gear linkage cables were attached to the gear levers. A simple job as both the gear linkage cables were the same length. Now to get the car on it's wheels the new bearings needed to be pressed into the rear uprights. As well as the hubs. Chris said he would not recommend this method as bearings tend to shatter. Hit the bearings in with a piece of wood and hammer. These should be pressed in. But Chris managed to get the bearings and the hub in in. All be it bashing my thumb. Me fault for not offering him a beer a bit sooner!!

Before the engine was lowered in, there are two mounts. One on the gearbox and one on the engine. The one for the gearbox would not fit. So some of the gearbox needed grinding off to make it fit. The engine was then lowered in. This required me to force the gearbox lower than the engine to tuck the gearbox in between the chassis rails. To fit the drive shafts, the engine needed rotated so than the gearbox holes where the drive shafts attach was not at a big angle.. This was then held in position using a nylon fastener (not sure hat there called but it's the ones you use to hold bikes on the back of your car). this was because the engine stabilisers needed to be supplied by Marlin but these was not supplied. This was because Mark at Marlin said there were various types of engine mounts and he needed to see how my engine was.

Next was the remote oil filter blanking plate. This was supplied by Marlin. The thread that the oil filter would have screwed on to needs removing with a mole grip. The banjo bolt I got supplied needed cutting about 15mm as this was to long. Then Chris said lets turn the engine over on the starter for it's first time. The engine was filled with oil and turned over by hand at first. Bearing in mind that this engine has never seen a drop of oil and is some years oil. The connecting the battery on the starter. The engine was turning under starter!!! The gearbox was then checked out by turning the hubs. All looked ok. A big thanks to Chris. I promise next time I'll get you a beer before you bash my thumb!!


	Pedal Box, Rear Suspension & Engine In May 21st - 22nd Arrived on Friday was the exhaust and modified pedals. These needed reassembled and fitted. After a bit of head scratching, I could not workout where the clutch spring attaches to the pedal. On the donor was a little bracket it attached to. Contacted Trevor (another 5EXI builder) who checked on on his. No spring needed. Cheers Trevor for the info. After a bit of jiggling about of the pedal box, the pedal box was know in position and the servo assembly could be fitted. The servo need a bit of persuasion with a hammed to help it through the holes. Once bolted up, the steering column rubbed against the brake pedal. I think all that's needed here is an adjustment to the length of the steering column. This will need to wait until a later time. Chris has been in touch and wants to pop down. Shall we fit the engine and get the car on it's wheels? Ok lets go for it. So engine is booked in for the end of May to be fitted. But I need to fit the rear suspension yet!!! So today fitted the rear suspension. The wishbones need some persuasion with a hammer. This is a two person job s o the other half was roped n to help. After a bit of bashing with the hammer, they were in place. The end's of the top ball joint (the one that screws into the wishbone) needs cutting where it enters the upright. At this time, John popped over to see how I was getting on. He always turns up at Grinder time!! After grinding about 7 threads worth from the ball joint and cleaned with the grinder all looked ok. Cheers John!! Fitted the arm which holds the track rod end. Fitted the upright roughly to get a rough setting for the camber. This was done using a spirit level and screwing in the top ball joints so the spirit was just off centre. May 28th - 30th Chris came down last night with the family. Had a good few drinks. The plan today was to get the engine in. But there was a few jobs needed doing before this could be done. First, it would be easier to have the brake pipes and gear cables in position and the car on all it's wheels off the trolley stands. So the first job was to run the brake pipes. After some scratching heads the pips was worked out. The long pipe was the pipe running from the master cylinder to the back of the car. The pair of long pipes was for the rear brake calipers and the short pair for the front calipers and a single short pipe for the front tee piece to the master cylinder. But there was a problem. the screw threads on the piping was not correct for the master cylinder. Also the single short brake pipe would not reach the connection. So down to the breakers and got another master cylinder but kept the servo. Next the gear linkage cables were attached to the gear levers. A simple job as both the gear linkage cables were the same length. Now to get the car on it's wheels the new bearings needed to be pressed into the rear uprights. As well as the hubs. Chris said he would not recommend this method as bearings tend to shatter. Hit the bearings in with a piece of wood and hammer. These should be pressed in. But Chris managed to get the bearings and the hub in in. All be it bashing my thumb. Me fault for not offering him a beer a bit sooner!! Before the engine was lowered in, there are two mounts. One on the gearbox and one on the engine. The one for the gearbox would not fit. So some of the gearbox needed grinding off to make it fit. The engine was then lowered in. This required me to force the gearbox lower than the engine to tuck the gearbox in between the chassis rails. To fit the drive shafts, the engine needed rotated so than the gearbox holes where the drive shafts attach was not at a big angle.. This was then held in position using a nylon fastener (not sure hat there called but it's the ones you use to hold bikes on the back of your car). this was because the engine stabilisers needed to be supplied by Marlin but these was not supplied. This was because Mark at Marlin said there were various types of engine mounts and he needed to see how my engine was. Next was the remote oil filter blanking plate. This was supplied by Marlin. The thread that the oil filter would have screwed on to needs removing with a mole grip. The banjo bolt I got supplied needed cutting about 15mm as this was to long. Then Chris said lets turn the engine over on the starter for it's first time. The engine was filled with oil and turned over by hand at first. Bearing in mind that this engine has never seen a drop of oil and is some years oil. The connecting the battery on the starter. The engine was turning under starter!!! The gearbox was then checked out by turning the hubs. All looked ok. A big thanks to Chris. I promise next time I'll get you a beer before you bash my thumb!!